AN
EVERGREEN OASIS OF PHYSICAL & MENTAL PEACE.
Dobong
Seodang- Seoak Dong- Gyeongju.
Located in
the western part of Soak village is the old wooden complex Of Dobong Seodang. It
was originally built to pay tribute to Hwang Jeong, a civil minister of the Jeoson
dynesty who was admired for his scholarship and filial piety. The present
buildings were built in 1945 and the complex combines the most outstanding
principles of harmony with the natural surroundings around it.
Mt. Sondo
rises behind the wooden complex and within the premises there is a well,
containing crystal clean water. As it represent the harmony of Yin & Yang
as the Korean ideal, when one enters the traditional wooded compound he or she
is engulfed with peace and tranquility.
On the lower
slopes of Mt. Sondo, just behind the fence, tombs of ancient Silla kings and an
old Pagoda stands as silent witnesses of hidden past and add to this peaceful
scenery. Sitting on the balcony of the Hanok structures and gazing at the ancient royal tombs amongst the pine trees one contemplates
the meaning and sequence of life, birth, decay and death, and get inspired to
use life with care for one’s and others benefits.
The wooden
structures mingle perfectly with the entire forest. While resting on the heated
floor in the same way of old days inside the Hanok room, using the Ondol
traditional heating system the tensions of body & mind are easily melted.
Thus in such atmosphere of peace worldly worries gets dissolved and gives space
to lofty thoughts which fills the mind with ease.
The complex
is located within Seoak-dong village which is one of the only villages in the
area made almost entirely of traditional homes; the sight of the roof tiles
houses in all directions creates a magnificent sight. Walking around the narrow
lanes, along sides small vegetable gardens and rice fields does creates an
innermost feeling of gratitude for a tradition which maintains the life style
of living side by side with nature.
Behind the
complex raises majestically the mysterious Mt. Seondo which holds many legends.
On its most upper slope, just below the peak there is a triad Buddha which was
carved during the Silla period and beside it located Sondo-Sa temple which was
built 20 years ago.
It is said
that long back 7 known temples decorated the slopes of Mt. Sondo, however nowadays only a small shrine
beside the Buddha images is alive and is called Songmo-gak (Holy Mother
Shrine). The shrine holds the memorial tablet of Song-Mo, a Chinese princess
who appeared long back on this ancient land. As she was forced to marry she
fled her country China and came to Silla before the 7th century.
Having resided in Mt. Sondo, beautiful and powerful as she was she chose not to
marry.
Many
episodes occurred during her life time and after her death the people of Silla
kept on praying to her during periods of distress.
Nan-Sung who
was the boyhood tutor of the famed young general Kim Yu-Shin prayed often to
the spirit of Song-Mo asking that Yu-Shin be given the power to unify the three
kingdoms.
“Son” means
Spiritual and “Do” means a peach, thus a legend is told that once a humble
villager went fishing in a pond high in the mountains. He took his boat into a
cove he had never seen earlier, and found an opening which appeared to be a
cave. Using a torch he entered and walked a certain distance until all of a
sudden he entered a beautiful hidden valley. As if in a trance he wandered
about and found peach trees growing all around. The people he met there were
kind and friendly. They invited him to their village and asked him to eat some
of the peaches. They told him that this valley had never experienced neither
war nor sickness. Truly a peaceful valley as it was he contemplated and enjoyed
the company of his new friends for a whole 3 days.
When
retuning back to his own village he found all to be strangers. Even in his own
home a strange family was living. When he mentioned his name a few of the
village elders remembered vaguely the story of a villager with a similar name
who had disappeared 200 yrs earlier while fishing at certain lake nearby. “One
descendant is still living in this village and could show you the family tombs”
the elder said. “But I’m that man “the old fisherman shouted with disbelief. “
I was gone only for 3 days”. The villagers shook their heads thinking the man
was crazy. He tried to find the cave but couldn’t. No one believed him but the
story of the spiritual peach garden spread and people wondered whether the
fisherman entered the world of the spirits.
Located on
the Southern slopes of Seo-ak village is the royal tombs park of great Silla
Kings. These giant mounds are believed to be the tombs of Powerful Silla rulers
such as King Muyol (29th king) who was responsible in unifying the
three kingdoms along with General Kim Yu-Shin, King Jin Hung (24th
King) who founded the Hwarang (flower youths) who were the chivalrous type of
Silla knighthood, King Hon-an (47th King) & Mun-Song (46th
King) and the tomb of Jin-Ji (25th
king). As one walks around these unique structures from which tales of
glorious Kings abound; one story out of many comes to mind:
During
Hon-an’s reign there was a noble Hwarang (Silla knight) by the name of
Ung-Nyeom. When the youth was twenty he was invited to a royal banquet. After
the feast the king questioned him; “you have visited many regions of my kingdom
during your physical and mental training, what have you witnessed that has impressed
you most?’ The young Hwarang replied with enthusiasm; “I was more concerned in
what I saw in men then in scenic beauty. I saw three men who in the eyes of
heaven are saints because of their noble deeds.” “What do you mean?” asked the
king. “First was a man who gave his position to another in order to prevent
strife in the nation even though he was more qualified. Another friend I met
wears cotton garments to be frugal even though he is rich, because he does not
wish to show off his wealth. The third man though from a noble family is not
proud of his position”. The King was moved to tears when he heard these words. “You
are surely a person of high virtue” said the King.
“I have two
daughters so you may choose the one you wish as your wife.”
Upon
reaching home Ung-Nyum told his parents the good news. They were overjoyed and
strongly recommended that he choose the younger sister as she was well known
for her beauty while the older princess was somewhat ugly. When the chief
priest Monk heard of this he came and advised the young man; “Be careful my
boy, beauty is not everything. Take care! If you marry the older sister you
will surely gain great fortunes”. The youth took to heart the monk’s advice and
married the older sister.
Three months
later the king became ill and died. Just before he breathed his last he
directed that since he had no heir Ung-Nyom, His son in law should take the throne
as his successor. The Monk arrived in court to congratulate the King on his
three accomplishments.
He had
married the older daughter first thus making her parents happy; he had
inherited the throne, and now he could also marry the younger sister and keep
her as his favorite.
Dobong
Seodang in Seo-ak village is indeed located among sacred sites which enhances
its uniqueness, and is a place where healing takes place and unfolds naturally.
Author: Ity
Sofer
Reference:
Korea’s golden- age by Eduard B. Adams
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